Join the Hani people in Yunnan for the Mohei Festival as locals and visitors smear black ash on each other for luck, blessings, and joy.
On May 1st, Sun Square in Mojiang, Yunnan, didn’t stay clean for long. Within minutes, faces turned black—and no one tried to wipe them off.
Locals and visitors gathered for the Mohei Festival, part of the Hani people’s culture it runs every year from late April to early May, alongside the Hani Sun Festival and the Mojiang International Twins Festival.
Some stood in groups, some wandered alone. It didn’t matter. Sooner or later, someone would step forward, smile, and gently press a hand of black ash onto your face.
The tradition goes back centuries. In Hani culture, fire is believed to come from the sun. The ash left behind is important and meaningful. Over time, it became a symbol of blessing and luck. So instead of avoiding getting ash on them, people want it.
The idea is that the more ash on you, the more lucky you will be. The square quickly turns into a kind of playful chaos. Friends chase each other. Strangers don’t stay strangers for long. A quick touch on the cheek becomes a quiet way of saying: wish you well.
Meanwhile, music builds in the background. Singing, dancing, and performances unfold across the square. Some people stop to watch. Others stay in the game, faces already dark, still laughing.
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