Across China, long-table feasts light up historic streets for Lunar New Year, as residents and visitors gather to share food, traditions and community spirit.
As the Lunar New Year approaches, long tables are once again bringing people together across China, turning historic streets into spaces of shared celebration.
A Huizhou Feast Blending Food and Heritage
In Huangshan in eastern China’s Anhui Province, the historic streets of Huizhou District recently hosted a long-table feast that combined local cuisine with folk customs and live performance. The event took place along Yansi Old Street, a traditional neighborhood known for its Huizhou-style architecture.
At dusk, guests took their seats according to local etiquette. Three gongs sounded to mark the start of the banquet. Organizers served the classic “Eight Bowls” of Huizhou cuisine, a festive set menu symbolizing abundance and family reunion. Meanwhile, performers staged intangible cultural heritage displays, including pop-up excerpts of Huangmei Opera, adding a theatrical touch to the evening.
Visitors from across the country joined the celebration. Li Yan, a tourist from Zunyi in southwest China, said the atmosphere felt distinct from his hometown. He sampled fermented mandarin fish, known for its rich aroma, and mold-cultured tofu, prized for its creamy texture. “Sitting at one long table with people from different places made the reunion especially warm,” he said.
A Southern Fujian “Weilu,” or Stove-Side Reunion Feast
Further south, a similar scene unfolded in Jinjiang in Fujian Province. On the eve of the so-called “Little New Year,” a traditional festival that marks the start of Spring Festival preparations in southern China, more than 200 overseas Chinese, visitors, and local residents gathered in Wulin Traditional Village for a shared feast.
The “Weilu” refers to the tradition of gathering around a shared stove or hotpot to welcome the New Year. As night fell, a 100-meter-long illuminated corridor lit up the historic street. More than 50 long tables stretched beneath the lanterns, each set with snacks, fruit, and steaming hotpots.
String puppet performances and a lively lion dance entertained the crowd before drums marked the official opening of the banquet. Guests then sat shoulder to shoulder, circling bubbling pots and exchanging New Year greetings. A roaming “God of Wealth” character handed out blessings, drawing cheers from the crowd.
Although the settings differed, both events reflected a shared tradition. Across China, the Lunar New Year revolves around the dining table. Shared meals and communal space help communities maintain social bonds and pass festive traditions into the year ahead.
Written by Ronnie Yu, additional reporting by CNS.
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