How Crayfish Became China’s Hottest Summer Dish

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Chen Wang

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How Crayfish Became China’s Hottest Summer Dish

Crayfish craze sweeps China this summer as festivals. Bold flavors, and record demand turn the once-unwanted species into a seasonal favorite.

Once labeled an invasive species, crayfish have taken on a new identity in China — a beloved summer delicacy and a symbol of shared joy. From riverside stalls to citywide feasts, these bright-red crustaceans now sit at the center of warm, noisy gatherings across the country.

crayfish in China
In Tanhe Ancient City, staff members dressed as “Jiang Taigong” took part in a fishing competition. (Photo by Yang Huafeng)

A Feast That Brings People Together

On July 5, the Tanhe ancient city in Ningxiang, Hunan Province, hosted a summer crayfish celebration. One ton of live crayfish was released into icy pools, inviting tourists to fish them out by hand. After the thrill of the catch came the reward: a variety of freshly cooked crayfish dishes, shared in a lively outdoor feast that blended food, fun, and local culture.

crayfish
Staff members and visitors enjoy crayfish together. (Photo by Yang Huafeng)

Meanwhile, in Xuyi County — one of China’s most famous crayfish hubs — more than 20,000 people recently came together for a giant “Crayfish Banquet.” In just one night, they cleared out 25 tons of crayfish.

Xuyi Crayfish Festival
Xuyi Crayfish Festival. (Photo by Yang Bo)

This isn’t just about eating. It’s about connection. “You can’t eat crayfish with just one hand,” said French entrepreneur Sylvain Pilhion, a loyal fan of Xuyi’s signature ‘13-spice’ crayfish. “You have to dive in, get messy, and share the moment with others.”

Lin Yu, a tourist from Shanghai, echoed that sentiment as he peeled another shell. “Vacation, good friends, cold drinks, spicy crayfish — nothing heals better,” he said with a grin.

crayfish
A diner enjoys crayfish. (Photo by Yang Bo)

A Dish with Endless Possibilities

Traditionally, crayfish in China come in bold flavors: spicy, garlicky, or plain. But innovation has taken over. Now, restaurants and street vendors offer a dizzying range of tastes — from cheese and curry to sweet-and-sour, Thai-style tom yum, and even fennel or wine-marinated crayfish. Each new twist reflects changing tastes and creative energy in China’s food scene.

Crayfish
Crayfish in a variety of flavors. (Photo by Yang Bo)

And behind this flavorful trend lies a booming industry. According to the 2025 China Crayfish Industry Development Report, the country’s crayfish farming area reached 30.5 million mu (about 2 million hectares) in 2024, with total output hitting 3.45 million tons — a 9% increase from the previous year. Crayfish now account for nearly 10% of China’s freshwater aquaculture production.

What started as an imported pest has become something far more meaningful — a dish that brings people closer, celebrates local identity, and adds flavor to long summer nights.

Additional reporting by CNS.

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