If you visit a farmers’ market in Northeast China at the end of October, you’ll probably see a lively scene. Tricycles overflow with cabbages. Elderly folks carry mesh bags full of radishes. Some even drag half a sack of potatoes home. That’s the region’s autumn tradition – stocking up on autumn vegetables.
You might wonder, why do people still store vegetables when supermarkets sell fresh produce all year? The answer lies in the Northeast’s climate. Winter arrives early. Snow may fall by late October, and once the ground freezes, it stays that way for months. Nothing grows outdoors. In the past, transportation wasn’t as convenient, so fresh vegetables were rare and expensive in winter. Clever Northeasterners found a solution: during the autumn harvest, they bought plenty of hardy vegetables at low prices. That way, they could enjoy vegetables all winter long.
Among all those stored vegetables, cabbage takes the spotlight. After buying it, people spread it out to dry for a few days, letting extra moisture evaporate. Then, they carefully stack the heads into a vegetable cellar—a small underground storage room that stays around 0°C, perfect for keeping veggies fresh. Some cabbages go straight into winter stews, while others become delicious sauerkraut. Sliced fine and stewed with pork and glass noodles, it’s the taste of a Northeastern winter. Radishes and potatoes are also cellar favourites. Radishes turn into savoury pickles, while potatoes last long and fit any stew or stir-fry.
Nowadays, it’s easy to buy fresh greens shipped from the south, even in the coldest months. Yet, the habit of stocking autumn vegetables remains. For Northeasterners, it’s more than just preparation—it’s a cherished ritual. Families gather in the crisp autumn air to dry cabbages and pickle vegetables. They chat, laugh, and work together. It feels warm, homely, and full of life. And when winter comes, pulling a crisp cabbage from the cellar and cooking a steaming pot brings not just flavour, but comfort.
So, don’t think Northeasterners are overdoing it with their autumn stockpiles. Behind this tradition lies their smart way of adapting to nature, their respect for the seasons, and their heartfelt way of keeping life cosy and bright.

Written by Yi Shen, poster designed by Di Wang.
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