From its first denim export order in 1978 to AI-assisted design today, China’s denim industry reflects nearly 50 years of manufacturing change.
A pair of jeans on display at the 140th China Import and Export Fair, also known as the Canton Fair, tells a story spanning nearly five decades of China’s textile industry. The exhibits trace the evolution of China’s denim exports since 1978, from early contract manufacturing to a more design-led industry that now places greater emphasis on technology and environmental standards, CNS reported.
“These jeans on the far left are a reproduction of a pair from China’s first denim export order, signed at the 1978 Spring Canton Fair. They had a straight cut, did not shrink and had no stretch,” said Zhang Mingcheng, design manager at the design centre of Guangdong Textiles Import and Export Co., Ltd.
At the time, Hong Kong buyers supplied designs and advanced garment-making equipment. Chinese factories sourced fabrics and accessories, handled production and arranged export procedures. Hong Kong traders then sold the finished products to the US market.
This arrangement reflected the early days of China’s processing trade, known as the “three-plus-one” approach. The Canton Fair provided one of the few opportunities for Chinese manufacturers to connect with overseas buyers. In the Pearl River Delta, factories began entering global supply chains through labour-intensive garment production.
By the 1990s, a denim manufacturing cluster had taken shape in the region. Washing, dyeing and finishing, as well as the production of zips and buttons, became part of a well-developed local supply network.
Today, denim fabrics continue to evolve, becoming lighter, more environmentally friendly and more functional. Their applications have also expanded beyond casual wear to include everyday wear, homewear and sportswear.
“Overseas markets once largely set denim fashion trends. Today, Chinese manufacturers are increasingly developing their own designs,” Zhang said. Some companies now use AI in the design process and apply laser techniques to create distinctive patterns and finishes. Their products reach markets in North America, Europe, the Middle East and Australia.
A well-established supply chain, mature manufacturing capabilities and stronger in-house design skills have become important advantages for China’s textile and garment industry, Zhang added.
For overseas buyers, however, price and quality remain key considerations.
Brazilian buyer Marina Siebert, attending the fair for the first time, said sourcing costs played a major role in the highly competitive Brazilian market. “The purchase price determines whether a product can compete locally. Only when the quotation is workable can we move on to discussions about styles and quality,” she said.
Australian buyer Michal Lobocki placed greater emphasis on consistency. “I care more about stable quality. There may be room to negotiate on price, but maintaining consistent quality over time is much harder,” he said. He also praised the designs on display and said the range of suppliers offered useful ideas for developing new products for overseas markets.
Chinese manufacturers are adapting their business strategies to these different demands. Zhang Jing, deputy general manager of Guangzhou Textiles Import and Export Group Co., Ltd., said the company often starts with trial orders when approaching new customers. Buyers first place smaller orders to test market response before considering larger purchases.
The company recorded double-digit export growth year on year in the first three quarters of this year. Zhang attributed the growth to continued product innovation and frequent new releases. More than 80 per cent of the products on display at this year’s fair were new launches.
Environmental standards are another consideration. Huang Yutong, a designer at the company, said the washing processes used for its new products had obtained relevant environmental certifications to meet the requirements of overseas buyers.
Nearly 50 years after China’s first denim export order was signed at the Canton Fair, the industry continues to adjust to changing market demands. The journey from contract manufacturing to independent design has involved changes in production, technology and product development. Since then, production methods, technology and design capabilities have all changed. Today, Chinese suppliers are still working with overseas buyers on prices, quality and product details to build longer-term business relationships.
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